neumann EQ


A modified 492 equalizer built in a 3U box. 10K:10K transformers on output. This is from an old german module, but I hate fiddling on those small knobs, so I had to build something bigger.
Labels: DIY
My adventurous projects in the world of audio-electronics.
warning : I'm a musician, NOT an electrician. What I do to my own equipment, is not necessary correct! I enjoy doing DIY stuff, and thought it was cool to put up a kind of studio tech-diary, a modding-log
Thank you for looking, and I hope you enjoy what you find here!
best, Kaada


Labels: DIY
Built upon the silent:arts pcbs, and separate boards to stabilize the heaters. It sounds nice and different than the other vari-mu compressors I´ve tried. After this picture was taken I stuffed even more metal between and around the transformers (especially the first one T1), and moved them to a 45 degrees angle towards each-other. Which gave better noisespecs. One day I hope to P2P a real 670Labels: compressors, DIY
A tool for getting some life and soul into samples or a bit of tub'ish harmonics into tha tracks. This is a clone of a more famous tube distortion, but the schematics can and will not be shared. sorry. have to keep these papers for my-selves. anyways, it functions as a tape-emulation, but with two 6AS6 tubes for stereo. 10K:10K transformers on both in and output. stepped attenuators and a Voltage Regulator Stabilizer Tube in the PSU. Mostly wima caps in the audio chain. They gave a more "crispy" sound than the other caps I tried. By the way, you just can't go wrong with Wimas.Labels: DIY



Labels: outboard

Salute to passionate audio engineers all around the world! Guess what? I found a 10channel Studer 169 at a flea marked. Covered in sand and trash. The electrolytes and some of the film-caps were no good. Hope to test it on an upcoming mix here at the Wrongroom ...real soon. 


Labels: outboard
Labels: compressors, DIY, outboard


two new pots (boost vol and eq) :
Labels: keyboards
got the case and the pcbs from some crazy circuit-bending kids on ebay a few years ago. And it's been with me on every concert ever since. Done quite a bit of soldering work on it. Had to stabilize the circuit and make it more predictable.
Labels: fx

Labels: compressors, DIY, outboard


oh, When I record 4x10 or 4x12 cabinets, I often disconnect all but one speaker. Depends on the song off course, but generally the sound gets cleaner and easier to work on when it only comes from one speaker instead of four.Labels: amp, DIY, electronics


Labels: compressors, outboard



Labels: synth


Labels: synth


Labels: DIY
My adventures in the exiting world of audio-electronics continues with an upbrush in my AMS rmx16 - the all time favorite reverb, ever!
I've searched and looked for the schematics for the AMS rmx16 for two years now. It seems like it was never released. So I just had to jump in, and see what could be done with my limited knowledge. After cleaning the unit for old stuff and sticky glue (thanks to degreaser)
Some of the opamps were changed too, but I don't think it made any difference in the sound.
finished! - Got the new ribbons from www.studioelectronics.biz.
here's my new wooden storage box for my mics. Previously they were in separate suitcases. It's much easier to have them simultaneously accessible at the same place, and off course more practical when you need to test different mics on different instruments. Through the last productions I've become a HUGE fan of ribbon mics.Labels: mics
It was time to try to make an old stocked DuKane limiter work again.
It was unfortunately impossible to find schematics it, so by trial and error I did some mods, and swapped out most of the old components. Here's what I did : 1) All caps swapped, and the big 0.47 filmcaps was changed to smaller types, to adjust attack and release to normal lengths. 2) Installed new transistors on input and output 3) new grounding 4) new PSU parts 5) The 5K trimpot in the compressor psb was moved to a new pot on the tront where the channel2 was before. 6) The socalled noise-gate was dropped (the psb to the left) 7) The limiter on/off button and the ratio button on the back was dropped cause they did nothing good. 8) shelded cables on the audio-cables 9)installed stereo-jack in and outputs
AND THE RESULT OF MY STRUGGLING AND AMATEURISH FIXING : Well,.... though the sound got cleaner, I dissembled the DuKane again after one week of testing. There was an snap-sound in the compressor-attack that made it too uninspiring to work with. Hopefully, I learned something. This one goes in the trash. What a shitty compressor, what a waste!

Here's what I did to the pcb : As a mod, I changed the uF values on the mid-tone EQ, and went for a bigger pot (250K). Then I swapped out the old caps, and found a stupid D22A diode, which I changed for a more normal type. don't remember exactly, think it was a 4148 diode. The grounding was tied up, new jackinputs and new caps.Labels: DIY

homemade versatile amp-in-a box. Runs on 9V and can be used as a FX-pedal, a re-amp box or a send/return bus, etc... The attached microphone runs on phantom power. The mic was moved around, and is mounted where I thought it sounded cool. I tried it on some brass stuff here the other day, and it sounded like an aggressive guitar. The sound of the saxophone suddenly sounded hip-Labels: amp
Now this is a special EQ! When something needs an edge, or some lo-fi eq'ing, I might reach for this one. It's rough on brassstuff, samples, and especially guitar. It 's got a notch filter from hell. They come pretty cheap these days, so I've bought two.
I've been working on one of mine for quite some time, experimenting with different caps. Plus I swapped all the 4558 opamps with 5532's. It is now more versatile than before, sounds warmer and more organic. The other one I've just kept the 4558 opamps. They distort in a compressed way when driven hard, like a good overdrivebox - only limited to a sertain frequenzy, which is one of the things I like to try when I use it.
edit / UPDATE warning : the 5532s gave too much gain, so I swapped back to 4558 on the freq-pcbs. Later I plan to get rid of the bigger film-caps that I installed- cause they made the sound to eh....bloppy/boomy in the low-midrange. Also on the try-out list is to test out the OPA2604AP which are supposed to kick-ass!
Labels: outboard
Here's what I did to my old fav, the AM684 federal limiter.
Labels: outboard

Labels: fx
The allmighty MS20 filter (KORG35).
The Q filter and the freq filter was combined in to one dual stereo linear pot.



Labels: synth
Todays project was to remove some of the noise from my Tapco 4400. It's a stereo-spring-reverb with character and eq. Here's what I ended up doing :
Handled the grounding first and wired grounding wires to one star spot close to the power-entrance to remove hum. There was several potential ground-loops, so I also removed the screws that made contact between pcb-ground and chassis.
Next, I put in +/- 18V-regulators and bigger caps in the powersupply, plus a 100nF filtercaps to ground. didn't hear any difference, but a cleaner DC power doesn't hurt.
The VU meter looks cool, but unfortunately it brought distortion back to the audio (on one side), so I decided to disconnect it. Maybe there's a short somewhere to the audiochain.
Last, but not least, the caps were changed and the 5K sliders was changed to 10K sliders. The unit dates back to 1976, and the connectors needed a good cleaning. The Tapco4400 is a brutal kind of spring reverb. And with a strong boosted input - it goes SPIOOOONG. With the 4band EQ you can shape it's sound, and since the actual springs are so big, it is mainly used here for extreme reverbs and 'creative'-effects. - I dig it on perc stuff, woodblocks etc. and dessert-guitars
This is the place where I'll share with you my own crappy recording-techniques and tech ideas.
If you have any electronics ability, modifying your own gear can be a very satisfying experience.
You don't need to be an expert to crack open your equipment and start making changes. You basically need the ability to solder and desolder neatly, and you should be comfortable reading schematics. With very little electronics experience, I've been able to modify several pieces of equipment.
There are tons of pichshifting going on in these mixes. A normal procedure would be to pichshift an octave down (-12), then remove the artificial top and bottom with EQ, and then run it through some fxs. Like an external amp and some reverb.
This is a superb grip to try on accordions! If you want bigger or darker percussion sounds, like bigger cymbalsounds, pitchshifting will do the trick.
G-SPOT SPRING FLANGER- cheap - flangers have a tendency to lay itself on top of the sounds, instead of blending in they often sound superficial. I have installed a small spring-reverb into my Flanger. I grabbed the springs form two mini guitaramps and stringed them inside. It makes my job more exiting to create alterations of everyday instruments. Is there anything more joyful than a huge, massively over-engineered effects pedal covered in LEDs, tiny switches and retro synth knobs? There are many reasons people choose to modify commercial musical gear. Upgrading internal components like capacitors and op-amps can clean up the overall sound. Likewise, providing a cleaner power supply can reduce hum and increase headroom, and help add fullness to the low end. Adding extra controls and patch points to an analog synthesizer can yield a much more expressive instrument, and allow you to interconnect it with your other gear.

Here's my hometweaked amps. They are not exactly "glassy clean" but has nice harmonics and a blues type distortion when cranked. The high gain channel picks up from there, going into heavy overdrive. So far I like em best with 12AX7-12AT7-KT66 tubes. Sometimes they serve a surprisingly pleasing and unmistakable sound quality, and other times they sound like dust. The one on your right has 4 jack inputs. I like to use it live as a selector between fuzzy&feedy vocalmics.
What we have here (right) is an analog /delay/echo device. This device is will give me weird crazy chorus and uncontrollable controllable feedback.
The pumping compressor that you can hear on some of my songs, is made with my Bigmuff. You can blend in a fuzz, into the compressor, and make pretty cool effects. Its kind of difficult to the settings right.The Sustain control optimizes the long sustain with just the right amount of harmonic distortion. I like to keep the sustain close to zero.
The music on the album is played very dynamic. I wanted the album to kind of flow, so I used a lot of compressors both at the pre-amp stage, the mix and in the mastering. At the mixing stage, they were mostly used as limiters.
In addition to the good mics, I always like to experiment with additional mics that I record on separate tracks. They all sound crap, but together with effects and hard eq'ing, they are valuable tools.Labels: mics
This is a Norwegian prototype condenser mic, made from high-tech military radar components. It sounds a littlebit like AKG C535 (but better). I used it on most of the east- European string instruments. It's called SYMFON BC-10 and it was developed and made by Thorleif Holm-Glad. Unfortunately, this great mic never got in production. Not sure why, but one of the reasons must be that it would cost a small fortune.Labels: mics
Old instruments and dippedutts have a tendency to make a lot of noise. I'm not really afraid of some noise, but I removed quite a lot of it on this album. It just comes with the territory of mixing digitally, cause everything is just so cleansounding. If you're gonna jump into the re-amp heaven, then there's no way you'll survive without a good noiseremoving plug-in.
There are some accoustic stringinstruments on the album. traditional instruments, followed by other more different sounding toys, like the Dulcimers, chimedulcimer, psaltery, mandolin, el-sitar, lut, harp,
lapharp, autoharp. The Norwegian Harding-fiddle is used on two songs. They were all treated with little respect of the original sound in the mix, and often taken through amps and effects.

This is my Harmophone. It makes sound with a windmachine blowing through its whistles. We didn't actually use it much on the album, cause the motor made too much noise. But you have to agree it looks pretty niceLabels: organ

I rarely record keyboards directly in to the console. They tend to sound better through a speaker. Tubeamps often doesn't work with signals from keyboards/synths.
They are all linked together with CV/trigger. Fron the top : TEISCO400, microkorg, Hitorgan, Korg SH-5, ARP solist, Korg Monopoly, Circuitbent Philicordia and a Moog liberation front.
Here's a picture of the inside of my RA-500. Notice the speaker glued on the metalbox in the middle. I did the filmmusic to a 70'ties inspired spagetthiwestern film once, and I ended up placing sending deep sounds through the metal into the stereo springs. It was so cool, that I installed it permanently with a jack-input for the speaker on the front.

left, Rolf Harris stylopphone. right - a pic of my moog liberator. Two instruments that look nice, but aren't used much. At least not on this album.Labels: synth
Re-amping always ends up playing a big role in the mixing stage.. A roundtrip out of the DAW, through a colorful amp, in a nice sounding room and back, can do wonders to the sound. Not only have you gotten a more characteristic sound, but it will probably be easier to place in the mix afterwards, either alone, or blended together with the original track. I might re-amp anything from the reverb-bus, drums, strings etc. And you can re-amp a sound many times also. There are no rules.
special characteristic is needed. On the “music for Moviebikers” album, I used an old gramophone speaker to help the melodyinstruments stand out. I might have gotten a similar result by adding some top, and make a distortion-bus, but not as lively.
When you're re-amping (taking your sound through an external speaker) try to put a D.I. box the wrong way before the amp. Take the signal in the opposite direction through the output first. Sometimes it makes the amp sound better.Labels: amp